Twenty-Four Hours in Prince Edward County

Good food, independent shops, a retro motel and a little time to wander.

For the better part of a decade, I've made a point of visiting the County at least once a year. Sometimes for a week, sometimes for a weekend, and occasionally for just 24 hours. I've visited in nearly every season, stayed in everything from country farmhouses to boutique hotels, and explored enough beaches, wineries, restaurants and little shops to develop some firm favourites.

When my children were younger, summers often meant renting a farmhouse, usually somewhere around Hillier, with plenty of space for everyone to spread out. We'd spend long days at Sandbanks Provincial Park, pack up our sandy belongings and head off in search of dinner.

Other days were reserved for exploring the countryside, stopping at wineries and discovering whatever happened to catch our attention. Over the years, those visits have evolved. There have been birthday getaways, leisurely winery lunches, long afternoons browsing Picton's shops and more than a few memorable meals.

This October, on my way home from Montreal, I decided to make another stop in the County. This time I was travelling solo, with just one night and no particular agenda beyond revisiting a few favourite places, trying somewhere new and enjoying a little time to myself. Having visited mostly during the warmer months, I was curious to experience the County in autumn, when the summer crowds have thinned, the trees are changing colour and the pace feels a little more relaxed. As it turns out, 24 hours can be just about perfect.

PART ONE · CHECK-IN

A Little Retro Charm at The June

I'd been curious about The June Motel for some time. Located just outside Picton, the former roadside motel has been transformed into a colourful, retro-inspired boutique property with a distinctly playful personality. Think Palm Springs meets Ontario wine country, with pink doors, bold wallpaper, vintage-inspired furnishings and an unapologetic appreciation for rosé. The property was reinvented by friends April Brown and Sarah Sklash, who saw potential in an aging motel and created something entirely different. It's a clever concept, particularly in a region that has become such a popular destination for weekend escapes.

Upon arrival, guests are offered a complimentary glass of rosé, alcoholic or non-alcoholic, a cheerful way to begin a stay. There's also an outdoor fire pit surrounded by chairs, where guests can gather for complimentary s'mores in the evening. I didn't manage to participate, having dinner plans in Picton, but I imagine it would be particularly enjoyable on a warm summer night.

The rooms are thoughtfully decorated, with plenty of personality and little design details that make the place feel special. My October visit was particularly quiet, with only a handful of other guests, and I enjoyed having much of the property to myself.

A couple of things are worth mentioning, however. The motel sits directly along Loyalist Parkway, so you will occasionally hear traffic passing by. The odd noisy truck made itself known during my stay, although it certainly didn't interfere with my sleep. I would also have appreciated down-filled pillows. It's a small luxury, but one I've come to expect when staying at a nicely refurbished boutique property.

The biggest consideration, though, is location. Picton is only about a seven-minute drive away, but walking isn't particularly practical. The route follows a busy road, and I wouldn't recommend attempting it after dark. Still, I slept beautifully and thoroughly enjoyed the motel's cheerful personality.

The June also offers guests a complimentary light breakfast of a muffin and yogurt, a thoughtful little extra. I decided to pass, however, having already made plans for breakfast at the Drake Devonshire in Wellington.

Would I stay at The June again? Absolutely, particularly in summer, when the outdoor spaces and evening fire pit would be even more appealing.

PART TWO · MAIN STREET

An Afternoon in Picton

Picton has always been one of my favourite places to wander in the County. Its historic Main Street is lined with independent boutiques, cafés, restaurants and beautifully preserved buildings. It's the sort of place where you can easily lose a couple of hours without having any particular destination in mind, which is exactly what I did.

What I particularly enjoy about shopping here is the individuality of the stores. Rather than the familiar collection of retailers found in every shopping mall, Picton offers an interesting mix of carefully curated clothing, handmade ceramics, jewellery and homewares, often with the shop owners themselves behind the counter.

One of my regular stops is City Revival, a wonderful shop for secondhand and designer clothing. On this visit, I spotted a gorgeous green and blue Paul Smith scarf that I seriously considered purchasing. The only problem was that I couldn't quite decide whether it was intended for men or women. In hindsight, I'm not entirely sure why that mattered. A beautiful scarf is a beautiful scarf. Nevertheless, I left it behind and, naturally, have been thinking about it ever since.

Another favourite is The Ye11ow Studio, a beautifully curated shop filled with pottery, textiles, homewares and other lovely finds. Over the years, I've purchased table linens and a bolster pillow for my daughter's bed, and this time I came away with a beautiful bag that I couldn't resist. It's one of those shops where I rarely leave empty-handed, which probably says more about my lack of restraint than anything else.

Anice Jewellery is another eye-catching stop, with its colourful storefront and eclectic selection of jewellery. What I love about shopping in Picton is the individuality of the stores. There's a sense that someone has carefully chosen what belongs on the shelves, and browsing feels more like discovering things than simply shopping.

Anice Jewellery Colourful Storefront The Ye11ow Studio

Picton is also home to the Regent Theatre, and it’s one of my favourite places in the County. Its story dates back to 1918, when George Cook set out to build a grand entertainment hub for his new hometown, and today it’s run by a not-for-profit foundation that keeps it alive with films, concerts and live performances. It’s a wonderful old theatre with real character, and there’s something special about watching a show in a room with that much history.

Over the years, I’ve seen a 50th anniversary screening of Taxi Driver there, as well as a concert by the band Sloan, and both were memorable nights. If you’re planning a visit, check the schedule before you go. An evening at the Regent might just be the perfect end to a day in Picton. It also houses the County’s Visitor Information Centre, a handy stop if you’re looking for local tips.

PART THREE · DINNER

Bocado: A Very Good Bite

I've enjoyed some wonderful meals in Prince Edward County over the years, and Bocado has become one of my favourite restaurants. Incidentally, bocado is Spanish for "bite," which seems rather appropriate for a restaurant devoted to Spanish-inspired food. The restaurant is tucked just off Picton's Main Street, with an entrance through a hallway that creates a little separation from the outside world. It's a small architectural detail, but one I particularly appreciate during the colder months. There's something lovely about entering a warm, bustling restaurant without a blast of October air following you through the door. Inside, Bocado manages to feel sophisticated yet relaxed, spacious without being impersonal, and lively without being overwhelming.

Dining solo, I chose a seat at the large, curved bar, which turned out to be an excellent decision. From my perch, I could watch the bartenders preparing cocktails, catch glimpses of the open kitchen behind me, and take in the steady hum of the dining room.

The service was excellent from the moment I arrived. I was greeted and seated almost immediately, offered water, and checked on regularly throughout the evening. Not just by my server, either. Several members of the team stopped by, making the experience feel attentive without being intrusive. It's the sort of hospitality that makes dining alone feel entirely comfortable.

I began with a gin and tonic featuring elderflower tonic, a wonderfully refreshing start to the evening. Next came a fennel, apple and beet salad topped with a generous cloud of finely shaved cheese. It was delicious, although I did find myself wishing for more apple. It was October in Ontario, after all, when apples are practically falling from the trees. A little more of that crisp sweetness would have balanced the fennel beautifully.

For my main course, I ordered the whole branzino, a European sea bass, served with beautifully crisp skin, roasted sunchokes, ajo blanco—a creamy Spanish almond-and-garlic sauce—and mojo verde, a vibrant green herb sauce. It was beautifully cooked, substantial and exactly what I wanted.

And then came dessert: churros with dark chocolate and dulce de leche dipping sauces. Warm, crisp, sweet and utterly irresistible. The portion was generous enough that I couldn't finish it, so the remaining churros came home with me. No sense letting perfectly good dessert go to waste.

Fennel salad with branzino and churros, most of which came home with me

Bocado is the kind of restaurant where I'd happily return to try something different, although that branzino would be difficult to pass up. There's also a Bocado in Collingwood, which I've visited and enjoyed.

Clearly, they're doing something right. My only regret that evening was having to drive back to The June. I could have arranged a taxi, of course, but hadn't bothered. It would have been lovely to enjoy another cocktail and simply stroll back to my hotel.

Which brings me to The Royal, located directly on Picton's Main Street. It's a beautiful alternative if you prefer to park your car and explore on foot. I've enjoyed breakfast there and even treated myself to a massage, although I've yet to stay overnight. It's generally a more expensive option, but the convenience of being steps away from Picton's shops and restaurants is certainly appealing. I think that might be my choice next time.

PART FOUR· THE MORNING AFTER

A Stormy Morning at the Drake Devonshire

The following morning, I checked out of The June and made my way to Wellington for breakfast at the Drake Devonshire. I've always had a soft spot for this place. Perched on the shores of Lake Ontario, the Drake combines contemporary design, eclectic artwork and a spectacular waterfront setting. It's a little quirky, a little sophisticated, and unlike anywhere else in the County. I'd stayed here years earlier, shortly after it opened, and have returned several times since.

The previous afternoon had been pleasantly warm for October, but overnight the weather had changed. By morning, grey skies and wind had rolled in, sending dramatic waves crashing along the shoreline. And I have to say, I loved it. There's something particularly beautiful about a lake on a stormy autumn morning, especially when you're watching it from the comfort of a warm dining room with a good breakfast in front of you.

I ordered a scone with vegan clotted cream and jam, a mango-banana yogurt smoothie and a horchata latte. Horchata, a sweet, cinnamon-infused drink, makes a particularly delicious latte, and this one was lovely.

The dining room itself is an experience, with enormous windows, colourful artwork and an eclectic collection of furnishings. It's the sort of space where your eyes are constantly drawn to some unexpected detail, and the changing lake views make it even more interesting. I'd assumed an October morning might mean a quiet restaurant, but by around eleven o'clock, the place was packed.

A useful reminder to make reservations, even during the shoulder seasons. Both Bocado and the Drake Devonshire are popular for good reason.

Wellington itself is small, and while there are a handful of restaurants and shops, I wouldn't necessarily devote an entire afternoon to exploring it. For me, the Drake is the main attraction.

I did pop into Oak Clothing Co., a shop I've visited several times over the years. They carry some interesting pieces, although I've somehow never managed to purchase anything. Perhaps one day.

PART FIVE· ON THE WAY HOME

One Last Stop in Bloomfield

Before leaving the County, I made one final stop in Bloomfield, a charming little village with a handful of interesting independent shops. You can easily explore Bloomfield in under an hour, but it's worth stopping, particularly if you appreciate thoughtfully curated homewares and gifts. It's quieter than Picton, with a lovely small-town atmosphere that makes browsing feel wonderfully unhurried.

My favourite is KOKITO, a beautiful shop carrying everything from candles and blankets to shawls, textiles and other lovely things for the home.

I purchased a shawl here on a previous visit that I still love. The prices are a little higher than your average gift shop, but the selection feels special, and sometimes it's nice to buy something simply because you love it. Bloomfield isn't somewhere that requires an elaborate itinerary. Park the car, wander along the main street, browse a few shops and enjoy the slower pace. And just like that, my 24 hours were coming to an end.

IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME

Of course, this particular visit was just one way to experience Prince Edward County. One of the things I've learned over the years is that the County changes considerably with the seasons, and what you choose to do really depends on what you're in the mood for. In summer, I can't imagine visiting without spending time at Sandbanks Provincial Park. The beaches are spectacular, with soft sand, beautiful dunes and water that makes you forget, at least momentarily, that you're in Ontario.

When the children were younger, we could easily spend an entire day there, returning to our farmhouse tired, sandy and ready for dinner.

The County, Your Way

If beaches aren't your thing, there's always wine. Prince Edward County has an extraordinary collection of wineries, from larger, established producers to tiny, family-run operations whose bottles you may never encounter at the LCBO.

There are other lovely corners of the County worth exploring, too. Lake on the Mountain makes for an interesting stop and a leisurely lunch, while the beautiful countryside around Cressy is worth the drive. One place we've particularly enjoyed is Fifth Town Artisan Cheese Co., an artisanal cheesemaker tucked away in the eastern reaches of the County.

It's a lovely stop for cheese lovers, with locally made cheeses produced from cow, goat and water buffalo milk, and the opportunity to sample a few varieties before choosing something to take home.

And then there's the food. Beyond Bocado, we've had wonderful meals at Flame + Smith and Stella's Eatery, while Rosetta is another restaurant worth considering. You could quite happily build an entire visit around eating your way through the County, with a little shopping and sightseeing between meals.

If I were planning a summer overnight, I might spend the day at Sandbanks, head into Picton for dinner, stay somewhere nearby, and enjoy a leisurely breakfast at The Royal the following morning. Another time, I'd skip the beach entirely, visit a couple of wineries, and save the following morning for shopping in Picton and Bloomfield. There's no shortage of possibilities, and that's precisely the appeal.

AFTERWORD

Until Next Time, PEC

After more than ten years of visiting Prince Edward County, I still find myself looking forward to returning. Perhaps it's the beautiful beaches, the countryside, the wineries or the growing collection of excellent restaurants. Maybe it's the independent shops, the old farmhouses or the pleasure of discovering somewhere new along a familiar road. Or perhaps it's simply that the County encourages you to slow down a little.

This latest visit was different from the family holidays and longer getaways of years past. There were no beach towels to pack, no winery reservations to coordinate, and no particular expectations beyond enjoying myself. Just a comfortable room, a little shopping, an excellent dinner, a stormy lake and a very good breakfast.

Twenty-four hours wasn't nearly enough to do everything, but it was plenty of time to remember why I keep coming back. And I will, of course. There's always next year.

ROBBIELANE